Best Of The Best 2006: Kiton
While most brands tweak the same silhouette from one season to the next, Kiton tries to define the suit shape of the future. For fall, it has introduced the AD model, named for Kiton co-owner Antonio De Matteis. The jacket features a distinctive, trimmer shoulder and a fresh take on the Neapolitan manica camicia, or shirt sleeve. Kiton has attached the sleeve to the shoulder without the customary roping, lending the jacket a softer look (though it does not appear slouchy, as other soft-shouldered constructions do). The model also has a higher button stance and narrower lapels for a lean, modern appearance.
Kiton has specialized in tailored clothing for more than four decades, so it is not surprising that the Neapolitan firm excels in the design and development of topcoats and jackets. Many of Kiton’s coats feature fine distinctions such as leather and suede trim and removable fur collars and linings. Some pieces are exceptionally lightweight, enabling you to wear them over a suit comfortably. They also may be reversible, making them suitable for all kinds of weather. One new raincoat is made from fine cotton dress-shirt cloth that has been woven on a silk loom to give the fabric an extremely tight weave that is impervious to water. A guanaco topcoat is both extravagant and practical: It reverses to a water- and wind-resistant nylon fabric.
Although Kiton has expanded its business beyond tailored clothing to include sport shirts and casual slacks (as well as neckwear and handmade footwear), none of these items could be considered too casual. Kiton constructs its sport shirts from Irish linen or superfine cotton and includes such details as handkerchief-rolled edges and natural mother-of-pearl buttons. The brand makes slacks from cashmere/cotton corduroy, which is dyed in soft hues that complement the colors of the firm’s blazers. And for its denim jeans, Kiton uses enameled buttons and special stitching treatments in a range of nearly two dozen colors.