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Doyle and Mueser: A New Generation of Bespoke Clothiers

William Kissel

When Amber Doyle and Jake Mueser opened their signature boutique, Doyle Mueser, earlier this year, the Fashion Institute of Technology grads were banking on the notion that young urban men (and women) would invest in bespoke clothing if it was presented in a hip, clublike environment rather than a stuffy tailor’s shop. So they took care to create a modern boutique with an old-world look in their intimate 350-square-foot space at 16 Christopher Street in New York’s West Village. Of course, it doesn’t hurt that Doyle Mueser serves up glasses of Balvenie single-malt Scotch as clients are measured for a suit and peruse the wide array of fine fabrics—from super 200s to super 220s—offered by such top textile mills as Holland & Sherry, Dormeuil, Harrisons of Edinburgh, and Scabal. 

Although the shop stocks custom-designed, American-made clothing off the rack, the focus is on classically styled bespoke suits, many served with a twist. The suits sold off the rack tend to be more English in cut, with a sculpted body, roped shoulders, and high armholes, says Mueser. Unlike most custom clothiers, however, the shop doesn’t dictate any particular “house style” when it comes to custom. “We aren’t rigid about making suits that fit into our private sartorial prejudices,” says Mueser, noting how this year Doyle Mueser crafted everything from slim-cut dinner jackets and tuxedos to double-breasted suits and half-belted Norfolk blazers. All of the suits feature full floating camelhair canvas inner lining, hand-stitched buttonholes, and pick-stitched lapels, among other artisan details. Off-the-rack suits start at $2,700, while bespoke clothing is priced from $3,500. The shop also offers a number of additional amenities, including one-off jewelry and accessories by in-house designer Ryan Matthew, and a seasonal shirt service whereby, for a fee, a new custom-made shirt is delivered to your door every season, every other month, or, for $3,300, once a month. (347.982.4382, www.doylemueser.com)

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