facebook twitter pinterest instagram You Tube

The Best of the Best 2003: Wardrobe -Traditional Favorites

William Kissel

Suits: Oxxford Clothes
Oxxford Clothes’ latest suit silhouette was modified from a roped-shoulder, nipped-waist design first introduced in the 1930s. By raising the button stance, angling the pockets, and adding cloth under the arm to prevent the shoulder from appearing overexaggerated and outdated, Oxxford Clothes—the only major American suitmaker still working entirely by hand—continues to deliver timeless elegance. Oxxford Clothes, 212.593.0204, www.oxxfordclothes.com

Dress Shirts: Luigi Borrelli
Using the finest cottons with a thread count of 200 or higher, the pioneering Italian shirtmaker applies as many as nine hand-sewn details—including its widely copied three-point crow’s-foot stitch for attaching buttons and the embroidered triangular gusset at the bottom of the side seams. Luigi Borrelli, 212.644.9610, www.luigiborrelli.com

Neckwear and Pocket Squares: Kiton
Kiton’s seven-fold neckties are the only ones that are custom printed and cut from superfine “millionaire” cashmere to prevent piling and abrasion that result from tying. The company’s linen/cotton pocket squares are hand-rolled and -stitched, a process requiring nearly three hours of labor. Kiton, 212.702.0136

Outerwear: Loro Piana
Loro Piana invented and then offered Storm System moisture-wicking technology to the luxury outerwear world. But it reserved the finest cashmere, suede, and wool fabrics from its Italian textile mill for its own elegantly designed coats and jackets. Loro Piana, 212.980.7961


Small Leather Goods: Salvatore Ferragamo
Ferragamo continues its 80-year history of innovation with this year’s application of pebble-grained leather on briefcases and small leather accessories as well as novelty ideas such as razor-thin reversible leather belts and interchangeable buckles. Salvatore Ferragamo, 800.628.8916, www.salvatoreferragamo.com

Shoes: John Lobb
These ready-made shoes, produced in an Hermès-owned factory in Paris, feature uppers made from a single piece of blemish-free leather and require more than 40 hours of handwork. John Lobb, 212.888.9797

Hosiery: Pantherella
For the past six decades, Pantherella has made classic men’s socks out of the finest blends of merino and mercerized cotton and infused them with all of the handwork structurally possible. This year it took luxury to the next level with the addition of a fine gauge cashmere/nylon yarn spun by Loro Piana. Pantherella, 212.218.6520

Bow Ties: Carrot & Gibbs
While most tie makers produce bows as an afterthought, Carrot & Gibbs starts from scratch, developing exclusive silks that produce less stiff and structured bows (never pre-tied) and hand-cutting, -sewing, and -finishing them off with a pearl button closure instead of a metal clasp. Carrot & Gibbs, 800.473.2826, www.greatbows.com

Cuff Links: Longmire, +44.20. 7930.8720; Formal Accessories: Brioni, 888.778.8775; Hats: Borsalino, +39.0131.214.211; Leathers: Schiatti & Co., +39. 039.365.201.2; Knitwear: Avon Celli, 212.702.0136; Pants: Incotex, 212.582.0042; Sportswear: Loro Piana, 212.980.7961

Read Next Article >>
Photo by Ted Morrison