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A London Favorite Opens in New York

Charlotte Druckman

London staple Le Caprice restaurant has christened a second branch in Manhattan’s newly renovated Pierre Hotel. The new space is a sleek, Art Deco vision in black and white; a well-executed simulacrum of the original classic Brit brasserie, including the photographs--David Bailey’s shots of 1960s icon Jean Shrimpton--that line the lacquered ebony walls.

The menu, also borrowed from Le Caprice London, is a greatest-hits list of likable dishes. Instead of trying to impress diners with overly inventive fare, English import chef Michael Hartnett offers an eclectic array of options that share a common theme: They’re the sorts of things you want to eat all the time. There’s the favorite signature duck salad that blends the sweet-and-sour crispiness of General Tso’s chicken with an elegant and refreshing combination of watercress and cucumber. For something from the mother country, try an upscale take on fish and chips that features fried flaky haddock and a minted-pea puree; buttery whole Dover sole; or breakfast’s grilled kippers. You can’t go wrong with a hearty bowlful of rigatoni with wild-boar ragù, either. Save room for the heavenly sticky toffee pudding, served with clotted cream. All told, it’s comfort fit for the Queen, or any of her more demanding subjects. (212.940.8195)

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