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Best of the Best 2011: Dining: Restaurant André

Chef André Chiang trained at France’s most famous gastronomic temples: Pierre Gagnaire, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, and L’Astrance in Paris, plus Maison Troisgros in Roanne and Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier. Now he is in Singapore with a destination restaurant of his own, Restaurant André (+65.6534.8880, www.restaurantandre.com),and cooking with a continent-skipping confidence on a level equal or better than his mentors.

Tartare of razor clam arrives with a morsel of chicken skin, fried and seasoned with masala spices. An oyster comes sheathed in seawater gelée with pickled green-apple foam. Chiang braises eggplant with cockscombs and duck tongues, allowing the fruit’s flesh to absorb the melted collagen—a technique that owes as much to its Chinese lineage as to its modern French inflection—and then tops it with osetra caviar. 

The restaurant occupies a pristinely restored 1920s shophouse with an airy second-floor dining room—outfitted with white love seats, midcentury armchairs, and porcelain antler chandeliers—that hosts just 30 guests per night.

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