Best of the Best 2011: Dining: WP24

Wolfgang Puck’s star is not fading anytime soon. The Spago founder is dominating downtown Los Angeles’ fine-dining scene with WP24 (213.743.8800, www.wolfgangpuck.com) at the city’s new Ritz-Carlton hotel. Tall wraparound windows frame a glorious view of skyscrapers from the 24th floor. There is nothing like it in the city, but the food may just trump the view. Puck and his longtime right-hand chef, Lee Hefter, show off their take on high-end Asian cuisine informed with French techniques and California bounty. The menu is mostly Chinese, with a nod to Southeast Asia: rich bites of shrimp toast, swatches of suckling pig in housemade plum sauce, whole French wild sea bass cooked in a salt-and-lemongrass crust, and Peking duck served with all due ceremony, with the sautéed liver slipped into tender steamed buns. The service is some of the best in town, and the wine list includes a large selection of Rieslings, Grüner Veltliners, and Vouvrays that make the intricate flavors sing.

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