SHO Shaun Hergatt: A Downtown Dining Destination

  • Charlotte Druckman

Before the flight of courses begins, the truffle butter that accompanies the bread service will endear you to SHO Shaun Hergatt and raise your expectations for the excellent meal to come. Be advised: The setting is mildly deceptive. A stone’s throw from Wall Street in the new Setai that houses premium condominiums, the large restaurant has a modern Asian aesthetic that’s in keeping with the building’s brand, but not indicative of the cuisine. Chef Hergatt, an Australian import, does sophisticated, intensely delicious, well-balanced global cuisine using the best ingredients. Instead of following the trend for local sourcing, he is committed to going the distance when it comes to recruiting his produce. An amuse-bouche of Kumamoto oysters does great justice to the bivalves, which arrive warm, yet perfectly plump and briny, and are set off by a flavorful crème fraîche foam. Found closer to home, the Hudson Valley foie gras meets an unusual soul mate in the ginger-spiced crackers it’s layered between; it’s a most happy marriage. Same goes, unexpectedly, for the pairing of rabbit and cocoa beans. Hergatt a chef with tricks up his sleeve and a keen understanding of the palate. Spread some of that butter on your mini baguette and prepare to be wowed. (212.809.3993, www.shoshaunhergatt.com)

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