FrontRunners: A Taste For The Modern

  • Sheila Gibson Stoodley

Art permeates every detail in the dining room at the Modern (212.333.1220, www.themodernnyc.com), a new restaurant and bar on the grounds of Manhattan’s Museum of Modern Art. A perfectly shaped cube of unsalted organic butter arrives on a small, square, stainless steel and glass platform; the spork supplied for the amuse bouche seems as though it is from a Mondrian painting; and the chairs swivel to allow diners a full view of the Calders and Picassos in the museum’s Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Sculpture Garden outside. A backdrop of this caliber demands artful cuisine to match, and executive chef Gabriel Kreuther, formerly of the Atelier at the Ritz-Carlton on Central Park South and Jean-Georges, is up to the challenge. His interpretation of modern French cuisine includes sophisticated and satisfying dishes such as langoustines wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon with spicy yogurt and cardamom oil.

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