FrontRunners: Belle Jar

  • Jill Newman

London is a key destination this season for jewelry collectors and devotées who would not miss a rare opportunity to view the work of the very private Parisian jeweler Joel Arthur Rosenthal, also known as JAR. From November 2 through January 26, the Gilbert Collection at Somerset House (+44.207.420.9400, www.gilbert-collection.org.uk), London’s newest museum of decorative arts, will present The Jewels of JAR, Paris, a retrospective exhibit covering JAR’s 25-year career. Since the American-born and American-educated Rosenthal established his by-appointment-only salon on Place Vendôme, he has been hailed as one of the greatest jewelry designers of his time. However, JAR produces only 70 to 80 one-of-a-kind pieces annually, making it impossible for him to satisfy the burgeoning demand for his jeweled masterpieces.

The exhibit marks the first time that JAR’s pieces will be on public display. Highlights include a bouquet of violets brooch in multicolored sapphires with pink and white diamonds and an elaborate tulip brooch made of rubies, emeralds, diamonds and enamel. The exhibit will clearly illustrate the designer’s exuberant color schemes and fondness for natural themes, especially butterflies and flowers.

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