FrontRunners: Stage Presence
In 1998, designers Irina Dorofeeva and Maxim Voznessenski drew the curtain back on Jewellery Theatre (+7.095.775.4400, www.jewellerytheatre.com), the first Russian haute couture jewelry house since the Revolution. Their concept was to create an atelier based on a theatrical theme, where one-of-a-kind jewelry designs are displayed like characters in a dramatic production using showcases that emulate stage settings with scenic backdrops and spotlights. This spring, the husband-and-wife team is opening a new retail store in Moscow and is seeking to introduce the collection in the United States.
Dorofeeva and Voznessenski compare their manufacturing process to that of precision watchmaking: selecting top-quality gems, employing 16x microscopes, and devoting meticulous attention to stone setting, polishing, buffing, grinding, and other finishing techniques. Their avant-garde designs depict natural motifs, including trees and coral branches, as well as striking abstract and geometric forms, such as the new Grande Victoria ring (top). A custom commission is another option for one who wants a truly personalized piece. “A jewel should convey a certain message, an idea,” says Dorofeeva. “People should feel it subconsciously, even if they can’t put it into words. It is exactly this particularity that distinguishes remarkable works of art.”