FrontRunners: Taking It Slow

David LeFevre did not make a big splash as the new executive chef at downtown Los Angeles’ Water Grill (213.891.0900). Instead, Charlie Trotter’s former executive sous chef eased into the role so he could earn the trust of the seafood restaurant’s longtime patrons and, says the amiable 33-year-old, of his staff. “I wanted to show them that I could do what they were doing before I asked them to start making changes.”

Those changes, which LeFevre introduced one dish at a time over a six-month span, concluded in September with the replacement of the last remaining entrée from the prior menu. A similarly deliberate approach characterizes the chef’s cooking style, which favors slow poaching and steaming techniques that coax buttery textures from such seafood as Alaskan halibut and Rhode Island striped bass. “If someone wants a dish from the old menu, I give it to them that way and also send out a taste of the new way,” says LeFevre. “We’ve been a great restaurant, but restaurants that are exceptional are continually changing to make things better.”

Photo by Drew Phillips
FREE PREVIEW: The Aston Martin Rapide S is among Robb Report’s 2015 Best of the Best selections…
FREE PREVIEW: The BMW i8​ is among Robb Report’s 2015 Best of the Best selections…
Photo by Ferrari spa/Carrer
FREE PREVIEW: The Ferrari California T is among Robb Report’s 2015 Best of the Best selections…
Castello di Casole’s new travel package includes drive time in the country and on track…
FREE PREVIEW: The Lamborghini Huracán LP 610-4 is among Robb Report’s 2015 Best of the Best...
With fluid, aerodynamic lines these six magnificent motorcars represent the three decades in which...
Drive a Ferrari California T with Mr. C's Beverly Hills Driving Italia! package
The packages give guests access to a Fiat 500 1957 Edition or a Ferrari California T during their...
Photo by Oli Tennent
The aerodynamic sports car looks to impress both on the track and during everyday driving…
The one-off 550 Italia prototype mates a Fiat 500 body with a Ferrari 458 Italia engine…
Limited to 50 examples, the supercar features design details found on McLaren’s 1995 Le Mans–...