German Conquest: Dining in Deutschland

  • Oliver Slosser

The emerging trend known as Neue Deutsche Küche—New German Cuisine—has seen German chefs begin to embrace indigenous ingredients and combine them with foreign cooking techniques, typically French or Spanish. The Berlin restaurants listed here epitomize this latest chapter in German gastronomy.

Die Quadriga: Head chef Bobby Bräuer earned a Michelin star at Munich’s Königshof in 1999 and now holds one at Die Quadriga, where he continues to uphold inventive presentations, such as his four-course menu featuring Atlantic sea bass served four different ways. +49.30.22.61.19.60, www?.brandenburger-hof.com

Fischers Fritz: The only two-Michelin-star restaurant in Berlin, Fischers Fritz is located in the Regent Berlin hotel and has been operating under its current name since 2005. Based on a classic German tongue twister, the name was meant to evoke exclusivity, which the highly creative and decidedly German menu delivers in spades. +49.30.20.33.63.63, www.fischersfritzberlin.com

Hartmanns: Experimentation is a critical element for chef Stefan Hartmann, whose restaurant opened in early 2007. His cuisine could be described as German, though his menus reflect numerous international influences. +49.30.61.20.10.03, www.hartmanns-restaurant.de

Lorenz Adlon: Though this restaurant, located in the Kempinski Hotel Adlon, focuses on classic French haute cuisine, it features a large selection of German wines. Updated classics include seared frog’s leg and sesame-glazed sot-l'y-laisse (also known as chicken oysters), which combines two bits of meat from the back of a chicken with white onion puree, cacao, and chili. +49.30.22.61.19.60, www.hotel-adlon.de

Quarré: Also located in the Kempinski Hotel Adlon, Quarré takes a more regional approach to its menu than its patently French counterpart, serving such regional dishes as an appetizer of fallow-deer crépinette with forest mushrooms and cranberry vinaigrette, or a main dish that consists of whole roasted duck breast served at the table with Napa cabbage, red cabbage, chestnuts, and dumplings. +49.30.22.61.17.23, www.hotel-adlon.de

Vau: This establishment, set in Berlin’s rebuilt Mitte district, received a Michelin star the year after it opened. Head chef Kolja Kleeberg employs fresh, seasonal (and, whenever possible, local) ingredients to craft such dishes as liquid-goose-liver fagottini with chanterelles and beans. +49.30.20.29.73.0, www.vau-berlin.de

Weinbar Rutz: A selection of 1,001 wines complements a menu that includes main courses like roasted saddle of Limousin lamb with garden beans, okra, and a honey-lavender sauce, and crisp red mullet with an avocado cassoulet and pepper-raspberry ice cream. +49.30.24.62.87.60, www.weinbar-rutz.de

Photo by James Lipman
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