Paul Fisher

  • Clockwise from top: An Art Deco bracelet of diamonds and carved rubies; a signed Verdura sapphire-and-diamond ring; and an emerald-and-diamond bracelet.
  • Paul Fisher’s collection includes this 1935 Cartier diamond-and-platinum necklace, which can also be worn as a tiara.

    That paul fisher recently revealed an exceptionally curated collection of jewelry for Bergdorf Goodman is not surprising. He is considered to be among the world’s preeminent estate-jewelry and gemstone traders, and his family’s legacy in the field is considerable. Fisher’s great-great-grandfather Julius started out as a natural-pearl dealer, founding the family business in Vienna in the 1850s.

    Today the company is under the tutelage of Julius’ descendants Marianne Fisher (Paul’s daughter), John Fisher (Paul’s son), and a team of family members that includes, of course, Paul, whose name is now the firm’s. Their inventory abounds with thousands of diverse offerings—from signature Cartier Art Deco pieces to 1940s gold jewelry to hard-to-find Kashmir rubies and sapphires harvested from antique and vintage jewelry. "We’re very particular in our acquisitions," says Marianne. "We won’t buy anything revamped or modified; we want original and authentic."

    The company—which has offices in New York, London, and Geneva, as well as representatives in Paris and Hong Kong—buys and sells jewelry at a frenetic pace while maintaining Fisher’s steady reputation as one of the most knowledgeable, honest men in the business. Joel Rosenthal—who is also known as JAR, the American-born Parisian jeweler whose pieces are among the most collectible today—describes his mentor and friend this way: "Pretense plus communication now pass as creation, and a few contemporary phrases plus self-assurance now pass as knowledge, but Fisher knows the truth, and it is an old truth. His eyes, knowledge, and quiet passion are unique today."

    Paul Fisher, 212.247.5725, www.paulfisherestate.com

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