Robb Design Portfolio: Body Art

Artist Alexander Calder (1898–1976) is renowned for his whimsical sculptures and mobiles, but only a few admirers are aware that he also created several pieces of jewelry. Most were for his wife, Louisa, and for friends like Peggy Guggenheim, who commissioned him to make a pair of mobile earrings. This 1938 necklace—constructed of brass that had been beaten and twisted, a technique Calder often employed for his sculptures—was originally purchased by Kenneth Clark, the then director of the National Gallery in London, for his wife. Estate jeweler Russell Zelenetz, a co-owner of Madison Avenue’s Stephen Russell (212.570.6900), recently acquired the necklace from a private collector. "Calder jewelry is extremely rare," says Zelenetz. The jeweler has handled countless historic pieces, yet this intricate arrangement of spirals and coils is one of the most fascinating he has ever seen. "At first glance, it appears like it could be ancient—tribal, Greek, or Etruscan," he says. "But at the same time, it has the feel of pop art."

The Milanese jeweler celebrated the opening with one-off jewelry pieces inspired by paintings…
The London jeweler uses baguette-cut gemstones to echo the film’s neon-lit buildings…
The store is located inside the Peninsula Hotel in the 16th arrondissement…
Photo by Matthias Hoffmann
The 13-piece collection will be on display in cities around the globe in the coming months…
Photo by Jasper Johal
Jessica McCormack’s Victorian townhouse looks like a tasteful private residence in London’s posh...
The jewelry in the new Louis Vuitton Emprise Collection feature streamlined rectangular shapes that...
Lisa Charles Watson, styling by Charles W. Bumgardner
The understated, masculine style of Shamballa Jewels’ macramé bracelets (www.shamballajewels.com)...
Photo by Lisa Charles Watson, styling by Charles W. Bumgardner
Made from 150-million-year-old fossilized dinosaur bone, this Monique Péan necklace (www....
Photo by Bernhard Rampf
Nature’s Jewels collection by Hemmerle appears to have been foraged in the woods rather than cast...
The jewelers combine shark teeth with traditional materials…