Robb Design Portfolio: Do the Locomotion

The tourbillon mechanism was invented more than 200 years ago to diminish gravity’s effect on a

watch’s precision. But instead of diffusing gravity’s force, Harry Winston’s

Tourbillon Glissiere, which features a flying tourbillon and linear power

reserve indicator, harnesses it. Evoking the wheels and pistons of a steam

locomotive, the Glissiere’s two platinum blocks glide back and forth across

ultrasmooth rails to engage a ratcheted winding system. To reduce the shock

created by the blocks’ striking action, the watch’s designers added rubber to

the interior of the case—a seemingly simple solution that required six months of

trial and error to perfect. While solving that problem, Hamdi Chatti, executive

vice president of production for Harry Winston Rare Timepieces (800.988.4110,

www­.harrywinston.com), who spent two years developing the watch with

complication specialist Christophe Claret, also had to change the mind-set of

master watchmakers trained to work with only circular forms. "Any time we

encountered a problem with the linear concept, they came back to me and said,

‘We should make it round,’ " explains Chatti. "Round exists already, but no one

had done this before."

FREE PREVIEW: The Christophe Claret Maestoso is among Robb Report’s 2015 Best of the Best...
Thanks to its mind-blowing miniature movement, the thinnest of the new watches is less than a third...
The DB25 Quetzalcoatl’s dial features a solid-gold representation of the mythical serpent…
These watches prove that a simple design can be just as pleasing as a slew of complications…
The new timepiece has a fluid-based linear timekeeping display…
The new watch has multiple systems to ensure that its movement receives consistent power…
Computer-aided design is allowing watchmakers to push the boundaries of innovation...
The watchmaker puts its skill in guilloche and damaskeening on full display…
The two back-to-back auctions will offer hundreds of unique designs…
The new variation sports a dial crafted from a meteorite...