Adour, NYC

    Alain Ducasse promised that Adour, which he named after a river in the region of France where he was raised, would emphasize wine and would not lock diners into a marathon-length meal if they did not want one. He has delivered on both counts. Wine is part of the decor at Adour—you are led to your table past hundreds of vintages displayed in glass walls—and the five-seat interactive wine bar, with its touchscreen surface that allows you to summon tasting notes and other information, avoids seeming like a gimmick.

    Specialties: Sweetbread "Meunière," egg purse; sautéed foie gras; roasted rack of lamb.

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