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It’s worth visiting this Relais & Châteaux property in the Pauillac for the sole purpose of properly enjoying visionary Thierry Marx’s 15-course dinner. There’s as much laboratory-derived hijinks as ingredient worship and respect for the delicious. Marx will cause you to reconsider things like quiche Lorraine, which he recreates in liquid form; chocolate truffles, which are paired with those of the black, fungal variety; filet mignon, which is smoked; Wagyu beef, which he cures so it becomes pastrami; and risotto, which he fashions not of rice, but of bean sprouts.

Specialties: Land & Estuary (pressed smoked eel with foie gras).

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