L'Atelier Joël Robuchon, Paris

With this, his black-laquered jewel box on the left bank, Joël Robuchon reinvented counterside dining for sophisticates and gastronomes. Known for his clean flavors and modern way with age-old techniques, he can draw out the subtle, sweetness in a carpaccio of scallop or, miraculously, embolden a seemingly straightforward steak tartare.

Specialties: Lacquered quail with black-truffle mashed potatoes; langoustine ravioli.

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