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Michael White is a formidable team when it comes to fine Italian dining. In a warm, modern space of generous proportions on the edge of Central Park South, his newest and most impressive project is this paean to seafood and fish. White’s deft hand is at its best when applied to crudo (raw) preparations like bigeye tuna with oyster cream and crispy artichokes, or to perfectly made pastas such as baby gnocchi with ruby-red shrimp, Controne bean puree, and rosemary. Specialties: Nova Scotia lobster with burrata, eggplant, and basil; fusilli with bone marrow and red-wine-braised octopus.

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