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NoMI’s taste thrills are as revelatory as its views of Chicago’s skyline and impressive art collection. Christophe David, who trained at Taillevent in Paris, can go from a simple flight of pristine sashimi to a decadent Burgundy-truffle-and-foie-gras crème brûlée without missing a beat. French dishes like bouillabaisse and velouté get impressive nouveau American modifications. For more casual affairs, the premises include a lounge, a cellar, and a warm-weather garden.

Specialties: Brittany turbot; roasted sweetbread; prime New York strip.

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