The family-owned Italian outerwear company Allegri is known for fabric innovations that are functional, waterproof, and lightweight yet luxurious. In fall 2010, for instance, Allegri pioneered Rain Cashmere, which is made by dipping cashmere thread in Teflon before weaving it into fabric so that the material remains soft, but is also water-repellent. Rain Cashmere marks Allegri’s 2,000th fabric introduction since the company’s launch in 1971 in the small town of Vinci outside Florence.
[From Our Partners] A New Breed Of Luxury, Haxby
Haxby is a new breed of luxury, a menswear brand founded on the principle that skill, time, and dedication must never be compromised when mastering an art form. It is a collection of the world’s most celebrated menswear and accessories that combines artistry with precision, historical craft with ingenuity, and timeless refinement with contemporary edge. Through its elite group of artisans, designers, and craftsmen, Haxby embodies one common goal—to create the finest handcrafted pieces using only the highest-quality materials available.
The Haxby story begins before the brand was born. At the peak of its European reign in the 15th century, England was home to the world’s most prominent goldsmiths. However, the country’s prestige was tarnished by crowded marketplaces infamous for peddling counterfeit gold and silver. Upon learning of the deceit, King Edward established an Assay office that certified the authenticity of precious metals. Set near Haxby, England, the office’s mark was a crowned leopard's head—the symbol and only true identifier of a dignified merchant. For centuries, this mark has remained the universal indicator of excellence. Today, the Haxby crowned leopard’s head continues to represent extraordinary standards and quality beyond expectation.
At Haxby, every detail, every inch of the production process has been reworked, studied, mastered. Each piece is the culmination of generations of deliberate consideration, rooted in timeless technique and brought to life with distinguished contemporary design. Handmade by the world's most skilled craftsmen, Haxby’s products are constructed to meet the unrelenting standards of the English goldsmiths who served as the original purveyors of quality. Haxby offers today’s discerning client a different kind of luxury-goods company—one dedicated to the pursuit of innovative design and quality without compromise.
Common interpretation dictates that when a man dreams of belts, he’s really dreaming of power. For centuries the belt has been seen as a symbol of dominance over others. If a man finds a belt, it means he’s winning the trust of someone. Dreaming of a loss of a belt signals woe in love matters.
Who would have thought an accessory could take on so much meaning? Then again, the belt has been a wardrobe staple among men since the day of Julius Caesar, and back then, too, it was deemed a symbol of authority. Soldiers throughout history have often worn belts—Greeks and Romans wore sack-like leather like versions that carried weapons and helped tie their tunics. The belt became so revered for its role in victory that the Mongols sealed alliances with the exchange of belts. The Franks believed a man took on the power of his enemy once he had seized his belt.
Fast-forward to modern times and the belt is still a symbol, at least sartorially so, in its respect for heritage, authenticity, and refined dressing. Belts by the English British heritage brand Haxby, for example, integrate the world’s most sought-after materials, like polished sapphire crystal and ocean-blue lapis, with the finest Italian leathers and fabrics. Expertly crafted by Haxby’s goldsmiths and leatherworkers throughout Switzerland and Italy, each belt is a testament to the art of meticulous craftsmanship. In a range of styles and colors from plum to aqua to classic blacks, tans, and browns, Haxby’s luxurious belts offer a glimpse into true power—dressing, that is.
They say you can tell a lot about a man from his shoes. One look at his footwear of choice and you’ll know if he’s detail oriented, whether he takes pride in the little things, in the smaller joys of life. A true gentleman aims to perfect his look from head to toe and takes his footwear choices as seriously as his suiting. He doesn’t have an entire closet devoted to footwear, but a streamlined collection of simple styles, ranging from the loafer to the lace-up to a stylish Sunday sneaker. Numerous brands and styles claim to exist at the luxury level, but for the urban sophisticate, for the man who enjoys wearing pieces by labels synonymous with heritage and quality, his shoes must exhibit a specific ideal of luxury. It’s quality and style, simplified. The look for today’s man isn’t about looking or dressing in anything intentional, it’s a modern, quiet take on a timeless craft. It’s seeking the best without having to shout it.
For true luxury footwear, one needs only to head to the hills of Montegranaro, Italy, where artisans and designers have perfected the art of shoemaking and passed their knowledge down from generation to generation. The British heritage brand Haxby features footwear that has been constructed in these hills, embodying this era of a timeless craft mastered. Each style, from high to mid to low top, is crafted from the finest quality Cordovan leather from Spain, with an interior lined in Italian calfskin. This combination creates uncompromised durability and unparalleled quality. Options also include fabrics that are hand-cut and hand-stitched to perfection, in hues ranging from oxblood to forest to navy to black. Haxby footwear is as modern as the man who wears it; it is a timeless joy that makes foot travel a delightfully stylish endeavor.
The denim pant is deeply connected to the fabric of Americana, with pop culture references ranging from James Dean to John Wayne. But the story of denim actually begins in Genoa, Italy. Jean fabric from Genoa was quite very similar to corduroy, and Genoese sailors started to use it to cover and protect their goods on the docks from the weather. Only at the end of the nineteenth century did denim arrive in the United States. A young man by the name of Levi Strauss was responsible for the import when he emigrated from Germany in 1851.
But the premium, luxury denim market finds its origins in Japan. Japanese denim enjoys a reputation among denim enthusiasts as being the best in the world and for good reason. While it doesn’t have nearly as long of a history, Japanese denim is known for its premium construction and the skilled, artisanal craft required to make it. One primary milestone is the production of textile looms under Toyoda Automatic Loom Works, a division of car company Toyota. The firm introduced the Model G Automatic selvage loom that featured new innovations, like the ability to change shuttles without stopping and a range of other improvements, which lead to a 20-fold increase in productivity. It would be a few decades before the machines were used to create denim but they were an impressive development toward what lay ahead.
The Japanese city of Kojima was key for textile production, thus it only made sense to produce the first pair of jeans in Kojima at Kurabo Mills, one of the world’s longest operating mills. These jeans were produced on Toyoda machines from American-made denim in April 1965. However it wasn’t until 1972, after 8 tries, that Kurabo finally managed to produce Japan’s first ever selvage denim aptly titled the KD-8, for Kurabo Denim 8. Now, all the pieces were in place for Japan to introduce to the world what would later become a global phenomenon. By the late 1990’s, the rest of the world began to take notice of this quietly growing art form.
Fast forward to today. Options abound in premium denim, but for the tastemaker who seeks unprecedented style, function and craft, there’s Haxby. The British heritage brand produces denim using the world’s finest raw materials, procured from four of the most respected denim houses: Italy's Candiani and Japan's Kurabo, Nisshinbo, and Kaihara. All have earned the esteem of their industry through unparalleled dedication to their craft and the passionate pursuit of excellence in textile production.
Haxby prides itself on using unrivaled Italian and Japanese raw denim that is manufactured entirely in Los Angeles. Each Haxby jean represents the best of international materials combined with a modern aesthetic and superior quality production. Each fit, from skinny to slim straight to relaxed, features the best is denim selection, in cutting, sewing, and quality inspection, that is executed entirely by hand in the brand’s downtown Los Angeles workroom. A Haxby jean means that no process is overlooked. From Italian and Swiss zips and rivets, to 24-karat gold plated gold buttons, each component to this pant is hand-cut and hand-sewn, ensuring only premium styles end up on the man who wears them.
Just one look at the truest form of personalized luxury brings endless compliments and laudatory adjectives of the highest order. The word bespoke is actually a form of the verb to bespeak, to speak for something, or “to order or reserve in advance.” In fashion, the term takes on a more complex meaning, as bespoke is reserved for individually patterned and crafted clothing, similar to haute couture and in contrast with mass-manufactured ready-to-wear.
Bespoke clothing is traditionally cut from a pattern drafted from scratch for the customer, and so it differs from many pieces of ready-to-wear. Since the development of ready-to-wear in the beginning of the 20th century, bespoke clothing has generally been accompanied by the highest quality of construction.
Such is the case with bespoke pieces made at Haxby. The British heritage brand offers such a service to clients through a personalized concierge, who will provide expert assistance with whatever is desired. From the use of materials such as 18-karat yellow, white, and rose gold, palladium, platinum, and Argentium silver to rare stones like moon rock, meteorite, black opal, diamonds, and rubies, no piece is too luxurious, no request too much. Skins featuring alligator, crocodile, python, and shark round out these premier offerings, adding a decadence to suits, leather goods, and shoes that is one’s complete own.
Handcrafted in Japan
Limited Edition 2014
300 pcs produced
18-karat White Gold hardware
Italian and Japanese Acetate
UV Protection Japanese lenses
Specs: 53 ☐ 20-145
Please Inquire, and a Haxby Concierge will provide expert assistance regarding this truly personalized service.
18k Yellow Gold
18k White Gold
18k Rose Gold
Hermès Launches Necktie Smartphone App
Hermès has launched Tie Break, an informative and whimsical mobile app that uses a playful mix of video games, funny phrases, comics, and videos with young actors to tell the story behind the brand’s famous silk neckties.
Available on Apple and Android smartphones, the app comes as a sequel to Silk Knots, the brand’s first app, which was introduced last year and demonstrates creative ways to tie Hermès’s iconic silk scarves. Tie Break, which will be updated every season with the latest collections, similarly suggests different styles in which men’s neckties and bow ties can be knotted, even offering digital pattern samples to try on against shirts.
Although Tie Break is useful for tie enthusiasts of all ages, it aims to engage a new generation of Hermès customers, younger people who are curious to learn more about the brand’s rich history and traditions in a format that can be easily accessed while, say, riding the subway or waiting in line for coffee. Through the interactive app, users can learn of the styles’ inspirations and how the silk ties are handcrafted in the same fashion as the classic scarves—dyed, screen printed, hand cut, and sewn into form in the Hermès atelier in Lyon, France. (usa.hermes.com)
Wooyoungmi Partners with Mr Porter on a Capsule Collection
Mr Porter has partnered with Wooyoungmi, an edgy South Korean menswear brand, on a collection of eight minimalist pieces that each has a unique twist on a basic. Known for its finely tailored designs, Wooyoungmi has based the pieces on its principles of offering simple garments that are cut to flawlessly fit and enhance the form. An unstructured navy jersey blazer ($655), for instance, softly drapes on the body yet fits neatly through the waist and shoulders, and is defined by peak lapels.
At the core of the collection are landscapes by the artist Kyung Woo Han that are printed on T-shirts ($200) and cotton collared shirts ($350). The collection is focused on a palette of mossy green, navy, and crisp white. The pieces are made primarily from lightweight fabrics such as cotton and linen, though the sneakers ($505) boast more exotic materials. Made with leather, suede, and purple or turquoise snakeskin, they can serve as a statement-making accent when paired with a suit or casual day wear. Other designs include a document holder paneled in green, white, and navy ($370) and a leather-trimmed tote bag made from denim and white-striped canvas ($260). The Wooyoungmi collection will be available from Mr Porter through the fall season. (877.535.3677, www.mrporter.com)
Revisit Unveils Eco-Friendly Leather Goods
Revisit delivers functional leather bags and accessories that are made with eco-friendly elements including antique brass hardware and leather sourced from EcoHide, a Los Angeles tannery that uses vegetable dyes and coloring derived from mimosa-tree extracts. In addition to this ethical sourcing, Revisit has committed 25 percent of its profits to help national parks around the country.
The bags are made by artisans who handcraft each design from start to finish, treating the leather to soften its texture. In step with the new wave of versatile men’s carryalls, Revisit’s premiere Founders Collection comprises 15 items, including a laptop case, a folio, a clutch, jewelry, and a tote bag. Among them are the 2.5-foot-tall brown leather Abigail Tote ($750), with adjustable straps; the expandable Washburn Weekender bag ($1,400); and the Roosevelt Backpack ($1,250), which has a laptop-friendly padded interior sleeve. (215.738.4748, www.revisitproducts.com)
Paul Evans Puts Its Best Foot Forward
When college friends Ben Earley and Evan Fript started their banking careers in New York City, they couldn’t find smart-looking, high-quality footwear that met their discerning standards. So they decided to explore starting their own shoe brand. The ambitious duo set out on several trips to Italy to explore family-owned factories, ultimately partnering with a shoemaker in Naples who has created for them a collection of classic styles, including loafers, monk straps, tassel loafers, and lace-ups, in an array of richly hand-painted leathers.
Rather than selling their footwear in traditional retail channels, they launched Paul Evans last year exclusively through their website. Priced on average from $350 to $450, the shoes are made by artisans, many of them second- and third-generation cobblers. “We want to stretch and improve a guy’s shoe wardrobe,” says Earley, who admits to being among the set of young professionals who appreciate good quality and style and especially love shoes. (www.paulevansny.com)
Charles Krypell Unveils Artisan Belts
Evan Krypell, the son of the well-known jeweler Charles Krypell, has designed a collection of unique belts that bear many of his father’s signature metalworking techniques and treatments, but with his own twist.
“I wanted to create something that I would wear,” says Krypell, 22, who joined the family business after graduating from college. When creating the Charles Krypell belt collection, Evan was inspired by his father’s metalworking techniques, but he also wanted to incorporate his passion for Americana design. There is a Western flair in the series of nine intricately designed sterling-silver and 18-karat-gold buckles (starting at $1,490). Prices are higher for gold models, and some styles are available with sapphire and ruby accents. The belts are designed for anyone to wear; the buckles can be customized with a choice of gemstones or diamonds, and a selection of hand-stitched leather and exotic-skin straps is available. Attention is paid to the smallest details, from the initial models that Charles Krypell makes in his jewelry workshop to the straps sourced from the country’s finest tanneries, Horween Leather Company and Hermann Oak. The belts are packaged in wooden boxes emblazoned with the brand’s logo, further underscoring the contemporary nod to the Western theme. (212.752.3313, www.charleskrypell.com)
The British Clothing Brand E. Tautz Opens a Flagship Store in London
The latest British tailored-clothing brand to break out of its traditional uniform with contemporary sportswear and suits is E. Tautz. Established in 1867 in London’s prosperous West End, the historic brand—which in its heyday supplied bespoke sporting and military apparel for luminaries such as Winston Churchill—is opening a London flagship store on Duke Street in the Mayfair neighborhood in September. The brand joins a lineup of time-honored British brands that use Savile Row–grade tailoring skills and luxurious materials to reimagine their heritage in a modern context.
E. Tautz’s fall collection adheres to the company’s roots with impeccably tailored coats, blazers, and sweaters, but it offers a modern twist in bold colors and patterns. Even traditional houndstooth and plaid motifs appear fresh in exaggerated patterns and new color combinations. The brand’s new two-level, 2,000-square-foot store will also carry exclusive pieces, such as a classic car coat made with handloomed Scottish tweeds, lightweight cashmere scarves in limited-edition prints, and an expanded line of accessories and knitwear that includes hand-knitted socks ($30) and ties ($167). The fall collection offers a head-to-toe wardrobe, from small accessories and dress shirts to lavish pure-vicuña jackets ($34,000). Aside from ready-to-wear, which is also sold in a handful of specialty stores internationally, E. Tautz provides custom suits and shirts on the store’s lower level, where clients can choose from over 3,000 fabrics and opt to have items hand monogrammed. (+44.20.7287.9439, www.etautz.com)
The notion of a men’s club—the sort of private refuge that was widely enjoyed a century ago—is suddenly gaining traction again among luxury brands around the world. Hidden within some of their most exclusive shopping destinations are separate, distinctly masculine venues that invite patrons to unwind in club chairs, sip a rare wine or whisky, or savor a vintage cigar. There are boutiques that offer the services of a traditional Sicilian barber or a top-notch professional shoe shine, along with their custom goods. Shopping? It seems almost incidental to the experience.
Brioni Debuts Its Flagship Store in Milan
This summer, Brioni launched its largest store yet. Located in a renovated historical palazzo on the via Gesù in the center of Milan’s luxury retail area, the sleek three-level boutique covers more than 4,000 square feet and showcases the brand’s full range of men’s products, including sportswear, eyewear, footwear, and formal wear. As part of the brand’s growing effort to provide more bespoke and made-to-measure services in its offerings, the new boutique has a staff of six tailors who are available to measure customers and create made-to-measure suits as well as adjust any garments on-site. The stylish, airy ambience of the store’s interior reflects the contemporary spirit of the brand’s creative director, Brendan Mullane, who collaborated with the design firm Studio Park Associati of Milan. In keeping with the exceptional and diverse materials Mullane employs for the men’s clothing, he meticulously selected elegant and luxurious elements for the store, including floors of Eramosa marble and Navona travertine, Poltrona Frau armchairs, and Ruckstuhl rugs.
With the opening of the Milan store, Brioni launched a new technology that will give its discerning customers the opportunity to try numerous digitized looks in a matter of minutes without taking off their clothes. The Brioni Miror is a new tablet technology that projects high-definition looks onto a customer’s reflection in the mirror, allowing him to digitally “try on” countless clothing options. It shows different styles, colors, prints, and fabrics in various combinations. Additionally, the service, which is slated to arrive in phases this year in Brioni stores internationally, will give customers access to Brioni designs and fabrics from stores around the world. (+39.02.76390086, www.brioni.com)
Cremieux Opens Its First U.S. Boutique
The French clothing brand Cremieux, known for its preppy, brightly colored men’s attire, has opened its first boutique stateside, in New York’s SoHo neighborhood. The two-level space is the exclusive home to the brand’s first-ever American-made designs, which include velvet loafers ($495), hand-knit pocket squares ($95), and ties ($115). The new store also carries Cremieux’s line of European-made cotton sweaters (from $170), lightweight cotton jackets (from $435), and dress shirts (from $160). Many items are adorned with the brand’s signature blue-and-white boarding school–inspired shield, which is marked with a “38” to represent founder Daniel Cremieux’s birth year, 1938.
Customized pieces will be available two or three times a year when the shop hosts Cremieux’s in-house tailor, Paolo Maffeis, who is based in Italy. Maffeis will measure and provide bespoke monogramming to walk-in clients or by appointment. Expect to see more of the family-owned Cremieux brand, as it looks to open a number of additional stores in the United States over the next few years. (212.343.3838, www.cremieux.fr)