Berluti

  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
    Collection Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
    Les Desmesures 628 Detail Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
    Sur-Mesure 10 Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
    Les Desmesures 3 Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
    Andy Tela Naturale et slg Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
    Sur-Mesure 15 Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
    Les Demesures 624 Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
    Alessandro Tela Nero Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti
  • Photo Courtesy of Berluti

    One of the few female custom shoemakers in the world, Olga Berluti plies her craft in a wonderfully ornate atelier in the Marais district of Paris, several blocks away from Rue Marbeuf, where the 115-year-old family business has its flagship. Since joining her cousin Talbinio in the family business in 1959, over the ensuing four decades Berluti has made the business her own starting with the brand’s signature finishing techniques. In addition to her application of vegetable dyes and chemical bleaches to naturally soft “Venezia” leather and bringing out the great depth-of-color gradations to classic black and brown footwear, Berluti constantly experiments with novelty treatments such as tattooing, scarring, and piercing to bring a modern look to otherwise classic designs. She is also a proficient designer, creating numerous model variations over the years, including a pair of Derby lace-ups with unilateral lacing down one side and the elongated loafers she made for Andy Warhol in 1962 that have since become another Berluti signature. Although the company has used canvas as an element of its footwear since the brand’s inception, this spring the look has been revived with its new Tela collection, which includes two-tone canvas/leather and linen/leather loafers and lace-ups that show off the lighter side of Berluti’s talents.

    Inside Information
    Best customers, including Bernard Arnault, who acquired the brand for LVMH in 1993, are often invited to join the company’s exclusive Swann Club, named for the Proust hero who Berluti says “epitomized elegance and romanticism.” The club gathers frequently at the atelier to learn a few tricks of the trade. Among Berluti’s lessons is how to bathe one’s shoes in dry champagne to allow the fizz to remove wax and restore the shiny finish.

    From Around the Web...
    With award season well underway, we’ve compiled 5 dress watches worthy of tucking under the finest...
    Brian Sacawa of He Spoke Style
    Inspired to revamp your eveningwear after the Oscars’ red carpet? An expert shares his top tips…
    Christian Louboutin ($895)
    Known for their alluring women’s styles, designers like Christian Louboutin are stepping into...
    Saint Crispin's bespoke shoes
    The European shoemaker delivers its coveted custom services to clients across America…
    Francesco Smalto Haute Couture
    These top-of-the-line Parisian bespoke houses are sure to suit your fancy…
    The 3 and 6 Bar at Fortnum & Mason’s
    The bar welcomes all who visit the third floor gentleman’s department at Fortnum & Mason’s...
    From demure to daring, the bomber jacket is here to stay. These are our favorite styles for spring…
    Give your spring wardrobe a bold injection with one of these playful sweaters…
    The new Hampton collection from leading leather maker Frank Clegg
    If you are heading out for a winter weekend getaway, we can help you get packed….
    Before you scoff at Vicuña’s hefty price tag, learn why it is an investment-worthy piece…