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The Best of the Best 2003: Dining - Citarella

Scott Haas

Citarella, on Manhattan’s Upper West Side, has been acclaimed as one of the premier seafood retailers in the United States. That boded well for its owner, Joe Gurrera, when he decided to open the restaurant Citarella. His chef, the skillful and imaginative Brian Bistrong, would have easy access to the freshest and finest ingredients.

Bistrong, who previously worked with acclaimed chefs Gray Kunz (formerly of Lespinasse at the St. Regis hotel) and David Bouley (of restaurant Bouley and Bouley Bakery), employs his traditional French cooking techniques to create cuisine that is intensely flavorful. His lobster, swordfish, sardines, and soft-shell crabs taste as if they were caught an hour before they arrive at your table.

Citarella, 212.332.1515, www.citarella.com

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