The Man Who Fell from the Sky: Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester
The first thing one notices at Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, in London, is the shimmering screen of 4,500 fiber–optic lights that drops from the ceiling to surround a space in the dining room where as many as six guests can either eat in private or be beamed up to the USS Enterprise. A chandelier of glowing leaves lends a pastoral note while reminding diners that Hyde Park is just across the street.
Desserts at the Dorchester are served with utensils of Ducasse’s own invention—one the chef’s version of a spork, the other a miniature shovel. Especially delightful is Ducasse’s take on cheeses; instead of a cart, waiters present an attractive porcelain tray molded to contain four cheeses and matching condiments.