Watches

Cellini New York’s horological smorgasbord. Instant gratification is not generally associated with buying an exceptional watch. If you are in the market for a high-end complicated timepiece or one of...
The Calibre DB-15, the latest offering from De Bethune (305.695.1435, +41.24.454.22.81, www.debethune.ch ), features the company’s first movement conceived and crafted entirely in-house. This feat...
It has become a popular practice for watch brands to introduce complicated movements as a means of elevating their status—regardless of whether they have any real experience in this genre of...
“Oh, I’ve already got that.” these words fall like a heavy blow when women of high style, bristling with shopping bags, range up to one another to size up the day’s booty. Even between men idly...
Jochen Benzinger’s atelier in Pforzheim, Germany, a sunlit room filled with intricate antique rose engine machines, is more reminiscent of a museum than a workshop. But such an atmosphere seems...
Sex is something not usually associated with fastidious watchmakers. Nevertheless, sex—in lurid, sometimes shockingly graphic detail—has a place in traditional Swiss watchmaking right alongside time-...
Military Procurement Not everyone has the same idea of what constitutes standard military-issue equipment. Consider France’s naval air service, which, during the 1950s, commissioned a watch from none...
While many watch companies cloak themselves with images of automobile racing or aviation, Richard Mille injects this performance ethos into his watches. Indeed, it is acutely applied in his...
Fraudulent claims notwithstanding, no one has yet succeeded in creating a genuine perpetual-motion machine, and the promise of a limitless, nonpolluting energy source remains just that: a promise...
Vacheron Constantin is renowned for its skeleton watches, which feature faces that reveal the timepieces’ delicate, handmade components, and for its highly complicated watches. From the latter...
Three of Savile Row’s finest custom tailors—Henry Poole & Co., H. Huntsman & Sons, and Richard Anderson—and one of London’s most esteemed bespoke shoemakers, G.J. Cleverley, have united their...
The beauty—or tragedy, depending on how you view it—of Audemars Piguet’s $2.25 million Springtime Charm watch and earrings suite, currently sitting for a limited engagement in the window of its...
When you don a tourbillon, you strap to your wrist what is perhaps the most inefficient, out-of-date—not to mention expensive—complicated watch available. Undoubtedly, a number of horological...
The most remarkable watches are often one-of-a-kind pieces, custom-made for clients of means. This is true of the original Cartier Pasha watch, which Louis Cartier created in 1931 for Thami El Glaoui...
René Beyer, the 40-year-old CEO and president of Chronometrie Beyer, cannot pinpoint the year, but it was sometime during the fall of 2000 or 2001 when his late father, Theodor, asked to meet him in...
Oddly enough, precise production schedules almost never apply to complicated watchmaking. Unanticipated technical challenges can make the work frustratingly slow. Fortunately, master watchmakers seem...
Once you have encountered the hopelessly fastidious Swiss, it is easy to understand why they excel at manipulating tiny metal parts. But these days, watch collectors are looking beyond the Swiss to...
It is tempting to write off Franck Muller’s latest jewelry collection as wretched excess for a certified watch maniac. Who but an overly ardent collector would be attracted to jewelry festooned with...
A wristwatch cannot be considered truly complicated unless it is also complicated to read. Such, it seems, is the thinking of a select group of Swiss watchmakers—including some of the industry’s...
The workmen have left, the scaffolding is down, and Audemars Piguet (888.214.6858) has moved into its sleek five-story Manhattan townhouse on 57th Street between Park and Madison Avenues. The opening...
Few things rankle more than when someone disses your sweetheart—even if she happens to be a watch. When you show off your new complicated wristwatch, you may encounter one of those opinionated...
Would you buy a watch from a designer whose work was thrown out of Switzerland’s most prestigious exhibition? For many watch enthusiasts, whether they realize it or not, the answer is yes. The...
With histories that are measured in centuries, venerable brands Patek Philippe and Girard-Perregaux can easily justify having their own museums. But Officine Panerai? Some might say a museum is a bit...
When Audemars Piguet introduced its groundbreaking Royal Oak in 1972, the company assumed a split personality that has lasted for 30 years. Certainly the watchmaker is as traditional as the tiny...
During my annual pilgrimage to the Grimoldi store in Milan’s Piazza Duomo last fall, I noticed that its proprietors, brothers Roberto and Cesare Grimoldi, were wearing something, well, different...
A complicated watch movement—its intricate mechanisms engaged in the rhythmic tracking of time—is beautiful to behold. But to truly appreciate one of the highest complications in watchmaking, you...

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