Michael Bauer

Balancing Act

In Nicolas Delaroque, Nancy Oakes finds a chef who achieves the perfect poise between cutting-edge ideas and soulful French cooking. When Nancy Oakes opened San Francisco’s L’Avenue in 1988, she was one of the first chefs to seriously reconsider American cuisine. Her plates were complex and well-integrated compositions whose side dishes took center stage. A grilled veal […]