Kiton

  • Kiton wool-and-cashmere suit, $9,850, cotton shirt, $1,050, and silk tie, $265. Thomas Pink pocket square, $70. Cartier Tank Americaine 18-karat-gold watch, $19,700.

    No other branded suitmaker devotes as much time to a single suit as Kiton does to its K-50 model. The "50" in the name refers both to the number of hours a Kiton tailor spends fashioning one of the bespoke suits and to the limited quantity the company can make annually. In addition to the K-50, Kiton has modified its ready-made suit, giving the classic-patterned design a sporty overhaul. That new suit’s jacket features a nearly unconstructed shoulder (a design element that requires more tailoring skill and finesse than does a structured shoulder) and a half-lining that gives the jacket the more relaxed look of a blazer.

    Kiton spends hours on each of these new suits—25 hours on the jacket alone—constructing them from boldly colored Scottish-check fabrics in a range of luxury materials, including cashmere and cashmere/vicuña blends, rather than the more common solid and chalk-stripe wool. "We want to take away the drama of the classic suit by making it less structured and more comfortable," says Kiton clothing consultant Gabriele Napoletano.

    Kiton has also transformed its suit trousers, which continue to feature skirted waistbands, hand-sewn buttonholes, and buttons that hold cuffs in place. In addition to producing the familiar flannel-trouser models, Kiton now offers five-pocket pants for all of its suits. The new pants have a slimmer, more contemporary cut. "What we propose are suits with two pairs of pants," says Napoletano, "one classic and one with a jean cut, but both made from the same cashmere suiting material."

    Kiton, 212.486.5250, www.kiton.it

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