Art and Sole

  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
    True to Scales. Left to right: Esquivel Shoes special-order glazed alligator wingtip, $8,500; Michael Anthony made-to-order saltwater crocodile lace-up, $5,400; Tramezza Su Ordinazione by Salvatore Ferragamo special-order alligator wingtip loafer, $6,500; Gaziano & Girling custom-made crocodile lace-up with square toe, about $6,150; Perry Ercolino custom-made black tasseled saltwater crocodile loafer, $7,000. Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
    In Stitches. Left to right: Santoni burnished baby calfskin lace-up with toe stitching (limited edition of 30), $1,500; Ermenegildo Zegna calfskin wingtip (limited edition of 999), $2,295; Silvano Lattanzi custom-order cordovan cap-toed lace-up with multicolored stitching, $10,500. Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
    Black and Tan. Tom Ford custom-order burgundy-and-black-finished calfskin monk straps, $1,590. Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
    Black and Tan. Ralph Lauren Grant II made-to-order chestnut-colored calfskin monk strap with perforated toe detail, $1,250. Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
    Spectator Sports. Top to bottom: Gucci natural calf leather cap-toe spectator (made to order), $1,260; Gaziano & Girling custom-order calf spectator, $3,000; Barker Black crocodile and suede wingtip (limited edition of 20), $3,200. Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
    Spectator Sports. Berluti Des Monsieur custom-made lace-up shoe with antique finish, $5,700. Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
    Buckle Up. Stephen Kempson mottled brown calfskin monk strap with chiseled square toe and heel, $995 (limited edition of 12). Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
  • Photograph by Lisa Charles Watson
<< Back to Robb Report, May 2008
  • William Kissel

Makers of custom shoes might employ centuries-old techniques, but their footwear still can appear surprisingly modern. Take, for instance, the shoes made by Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling of England’s Gaziano & Girling. "Instead of making a bespoke shoe that simply takes the shape of the foot, we make it a shape that enhances the foot, even in the most extreme cases," says Gaziano, who has worked for such renowned British shoemakers as Edward Green and G.J. Cleverley. The duo’s latest designs include sharp-toed, slim-fitting spectator styles cut in crocodile, buckskin, and other exotic hides. "Our goal is to make even the simplest shoe have such an aesthetic attraction that you can’t help but pick it up and look at it," adds Gaziano.

Shoemakers as diverse as America’s Michael Anthony and Perry Ercolino, Italy’s Silvano Lattanzi, and France’s Olga Berluti also employ old-world methods to fashion contemporary styles. In Anthony’s case, he cuts his soles slightly off-kilter and shapes his heels with an inward tilt. Ercolino prefers more conventional brogue and blucher styles, but he often produces them in exotic materials, such as saltwater crocodile. Lattanzi uses perforated leather uppers for a pair of classic men’s spectators. He also puts his stamp on a boat shoe model that Lattanzi’s sister company, Gatto, originally produced in 1912 for Benito Mussolini. His special-order version has nearly 200 feet of marine line embedded in the soles. A diagonal overlap of leather reaching from the laces to the heels has a trimming effect on Berluti’s oxfords. She also continues to toy with antique finishes for leather, creating color shadings that appear to be the result of years of wear.

Though best known for ready-made shoes, Santoni, Edward Green, Michael Toschi, and Barker Black have launched collections of bench-made shoes. Their footwear is made of alligator, ostrich, or kangaroo and adorned with unique details such as gold hardware.

Other shoemakers also are incorporating precious metals into their designs. Italy’s Sutor Mantellassi makes a special-order pair of crocodile sandals appointed with pure platinum buckles, which account for the $20,000 price tag. California shoemaker George Esquivel offers a pair of $6,500 wingtips with solid yellow gold eyelets and $40,200 alligator monk straps with jeweled buckles that double as cuff links. "These shoes are designed for a very special individual who understands why a pair costs $40,000 or even $80,000, for that matter," says Esquivel, who also makes a series for car collectors who want to wear shoes that complement the models and color schemes of their autos.

Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren, and Ermenegildo Zegna have introduced limited-edition and special-order footwear, including custom shoes, and Gucci has added a comprehensive made-to-order shoe program that allows you to commission any Gucci model in a choice of six different skins, including ostrich and crocodile. The shoes can cost as much as $14,000, depending on the finish and details, which can include monogramming.

Resources

BARKER BLACK
212.966.2166, www.barkerblack.com

BERLUTI
212.439.6400, www.berluti.com

EDWARD GREEN
+44.20.7839.0202, www.edwardgreen.com

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
212.421.4488, www.zegna.com

ESQUIVEL SHOES
714.670.2200, www.esquivelshoes.com

GAZIANO & GIRLING
+44.1536.511022, www.gazianogirling.com

GUCCI
212.826.2600, www.gucci.com

MICHAEL ANTHONY
707.823.7204

MICHAEL TOSCHI
877.686.7244, 650.508.4420, www.toschi.com

PERRY ERCOLINO
215.348.5885, www.perryercolino.com

RALPH LAUREN
888.475.7674, www.ralphlauren.com

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
212.759.3822, www.ferragamo.com

SANTONI
212.794.3820, www.santonishoesusa.com

SILVANO LATTANZI
212.734.2962, www.zintala.it

STEPHEN KEMPSON
212.688.2868, www.stephenkempson.com

SUTOR MANTELLASSI
212.582.0042, www.sutormantellassi.com

TOM FORD
212.359.0300, www.tomford.com

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