Bespoke Dunhill Suits Without Traveling to London

  • Photo by Conr Kinman
    Alfred Dunhill now shares London- based master tailor Martin Nicholls (with client Andrés Miranda) with the brand’s Manhattan store. Photo by Conr Kinman
  • Photo by Conr Kinman
    Alfred Dunhill now shares London- based master tailor Martin Nicholls (with client Andrés Miranda) with the brand’s Manhattan store. Photo by Conr Kinman
  • Photo by Conr Kinman
  • Photo by Conr Kinman

Alfred Dunhill brings its top-notch bespoke service to Madison Avenue.

Last autumn in Manhattan, Andrés Miranda had an authentic British experience. He stood in the cozy living-room-style VIP area of Alfred Dunhill’s Madison Avenue store, conferring with the British luxury-goods brand’s master tailor. Martin Nicholls was visiting from London, where for 20 years (13 of them at Dunhill) he has been fashioning exquisite clothing by hand. It was Miranda’s first fitting—the second of what would ultimately be three stateside meetings in the creation of a bespoke suit by Dunhill’s foremost expert.

“It’s an addiction,” said Miranda, an executive director of a New York financial-services firm; the 35-year-old ordered his first bespoke suit a decade ago and now says nothing else is good enough. “A bespoke suit feels much better on than an off-the-rack or made-to-measure [suit], because it is so personal,” he said. “It is made exactly the way you want it to fit, and it won’t fit anyone else the same way.”

Outside of London, this bespoke service by Dunhill’s chief tailor was previously available only at the brand’s Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Tokyo stores, but last year the brand began sharing Nicholls with the Manhattan location, where clients now can request one of his suits. At the initial consultation, he takes copious measurements and ascertains the customer’s needs with respect to activity level, climate, aesthetic preferences, and so on, so that he can recommend fabrics, style, and silhouette. He returns to Dunhill’s Bourdon House flagship store in Mayfair, where he personally cuts the pattern and sews the suit. He comes back to New York for a fitting, then again for a third meeting to deliver the garment and make last adjustments.

Nicholls takes about 80 hours to produce a single suit, such as his creation for Miranda. While being fitted, Miranda noted that he enjoys the creative process of collaborating with a tailor, and for him this particular process would ultimately yield a slim suit—tailored to enhance his broad shoulders and narrow waist—in a lightweight gray wool cloth. (Dunhill’s thousands of fabrics include distinctive offerings—such as a blend of pashmina from northern India, Qiviuk from Alaska, and vicuña from the Peruvian Andes—that drive up the cost of a bespoke suit, which starts at $6,500.) “In banking, the dress code tends to be conservative,” he said, “but I can have a little more personality with fabric linings and details.”  

Alfred Dunhill, 212.753.9292, dunhill.com

 

From Around the Web...
Prada Made-to-Measure service
Prada is going for bespoke with intimate VIP rooms and a luxurious attention to detail…
Polo Ralph Lauren Cotton-Blend Twill Harrington Jacket, $185
Menswear expert Adam Brown’s strategy for packing clothes to carry you from the beach to the bar…
Brands big and small are making it easier than ever to find your perfect pair of glasses…
Louis Vuitton small wallet ($750
Louis Vuitton taps Jake and Dinos Chapman to put a wild spin on its classic monogram bags…
Second/Layer
Mr Porter’s biggest capsule collection to date is an ode to Californian summers…
Six designs from Gucci, Ben Sherman, Zenith, and more that prove what’s old is new again…
Bold and playful prints you should be wearing from designers like Gucci, Valentino, and Thom Browne…
Sid Mashburn Made-to-Measurement program recently launched online
With the new digital Made-to-Measurement program, Sid Mashburn brings bespoke to your fingertips…
L’Atelier Lafont allows clients to design custom frames
Heritage eyewear brand Lafont opens its first atelier, letting you be the designer…
Ben Sherman pale-pink 1960s candy stripe shirt
Ben Sherman is reissuing three of its most iconic shirts for the limited-edition Archive Collection…