The Best of the Best 2003: Dining - Das Fletschhorn

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Das Fletschhorn, in the exclusive, car-free resort of Saas-Fee, Switzer-land, proves that it is possible to enjoy first-rate dining in the mountains. Known among Swiss cuisine cognoscenti as Irma Dütsch in honor of its chef of the same name, this restaurant offers haute cuisine in which local ingredients are treated with the utmost deference.

Dütsch is a chef who understands the virtues of restraint—with ingredients so pure and flavorful, why overwhelm them? Her cooking represents the essence of Swiss gastronomy, which is driven by the country’s extraordinary agriculture.

Not to be outdone, Dütsch’s husband, Hans-Jörg, guides diners through a wine list notable for its inclusion of offerings from exclusive Swiss producers. He is also a bit of a ham: Dressed in regalia that makes him look like the leader of a high school marching band, he performs the old-fashioned service of tasting the wine for you with a chevalier de tas de vin, the sommelier’s traditional tool.

Das Fletschhorn, +41.27.957.21.31, www.fletschhorn.ch

Photo by Daniel Krieger for the New York Times
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