The Best of the Best 2003: Dining - Taillevent

<< Back to Robb Report, June 2003

Despite the formal atmosphere of Taillevent, which features Louis XVI decor and a phalanx of tuxedoed waiters, the staff of the Paris landmark conveys a genuine sense of warmth.

 

“Taillevent is more of a club than a restaurant,” says the restaurant’s owner, Jean-Claude Vrinat. “The word ‘customers’ is banished; visitors or friends is the correct expression.”

While other restaurants follow or create trends, history is the guiding principle at Taillevent. The kitchen does not deviate from traditional French methods of cooking, presentation, or use of ingredients. It follows strict guidelines while creating classic dishes such as boudin de homard Breton (lobster sausages), escalopes de foie de canard au Banyuls (duck livers), and filet de boeuf à la bordelaise (beef fillet in a wine sauce).

Chef Alain Solivérès started at Taillevent just last year. As he settles into his position, do not be surprised if the kitchen reaches even higher levels of gastronomical glory.

Taillevent, +33.4495.1501, www.taillevent.com

Photo by Daniel Krieger for the New York Times
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