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An Evening of French Delicacies

Amanda Millin

Moët & Chandon has teamed up with the Michelin three-star chef Yannick Alléno, formerly of Le Meurice in Paris, to open Le &—a pop-up restaurant set within the L’Orangerie reception space in Moët & Chandon’s historic estate, which dates back to the early 1800s. Now through the end of July, Le & celebrates the renowned Champagne house’s new Grand Vintage 2006 release and takes guests on a multistep culinary journey through several different rooms of the estate.

The experience begins in the property’s glasshouse reception area with a selection of seven appetizers called the 7 Salt Bar. Each of the dishes—including dim sum with pork extract and mushroom, fregola sarda pasta with shellfish, and oyster with cucumber extract—is served with Moët Impérial and explores how salinity interacts with the bitterness and acidity from the grapes, the earthy umami from the yeast, and the sweetness of the dosage. Guests then migrate to the main dining room, which features chandeliers crafted from Moët bottles and a central open kitchen with Molteni appliances. Here, pike terrine brioche is served with mushroom extract, butter, lobster coral, and the rich Grand Vintage Collection 1985, which has hints of preserved mirabelle plums. Roasted lamb chop with potato and onion is paired with the creamy pomelo notes of the Grand Vintage 2006.

After dinner, guests are guided into a dimly lit space meant to heighten the senses of taste and smell; there they are served three shots of concentrated parsnip that was cooked sous vide and then run through an ice-cream maker several times. The potent reduction is served alongside glasses of pale-yellow Grand Vintage Collection 1999, which exhibits refined notes of nectarine and currant. The evening is concluded back in the dining room, now transformed into a lounge bar with overstuffed chairs, neon illuminated art, a DJ, and a dessert menu that pairs the romantic and fruity Moët Impérial and Grand Vintage Collection 1999 with creative delicacies such as strawberry soup, Baulus cake with beer ice and beer pie, and stirred yogurt with gelled corn extract and popcorn. Reservations require a minimum party of four guests and cost about $612 per person. (www.moet.com/pre-booking)

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