A Fresh Take on Fish

    The signature dish at the newly opened Paperfish on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles plays off its name: seasonal fish and vegetables baked en papillote?the French technique of wrapping the ingredients in parchment paper to infuse the flavors while cooking. The new venue is headed by Patina Restaurant Group’s Joachim Splichal, who opened Patina in Hollywood nearly 20 years ago. Under the direction of executive chef Yianni Koufodontis, who worked as sous chef at Spago before running the kitchen at Maple Drive, which previously occupied the Paperfish location, dishes are prepared with an unexpected mix of flavors such as oysters on the half shell with pomegranate-ginger granite and steamed turbot with dried fruit couscous and eggplant-oxtail tagine. (310.858.6030, www.patinagroup.com/paperfish)

    ?Alexandra Foster

    Photo by Daniel Krieger for the New York Times
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