FrontRunners April 2015: Pacaud 2.0

  • Jérôme Galland
    Jérôme Galland
  • Carl Reinholdtzon Belfrage

Mathieu Pacaud, the 34-year-old chef behind the new Paris restaurant Hexagone (hexagone-paris.fr), says he “wanted to create a place where [his] friends want to hang out.” But instead of creating yet another bistro nouveau, Pacaud—who worked in the Michelin three-star kitchen of his father, chef Bernard Pacaud—has revived the art of fine dining. His tasting and à la carte menus are complex yet light and filled with flavor. A dish called Gelée Anisée, for example, enhances juicy crayfish with cauliflower mousseline, fresh flowers and herbs, star-anise aspic, and a delicately perfumed green-mango sauce. The extensive wine list by Benjamin Roffet focuses on the classics with a generous selection of grand crus by the glass, and the elegant dining room, designed by Patrick Gilles and Dorothée Boissier, is as on point as the menu.  

 

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