Three New Restaurants in NYC Elevate Vegetables

  • Agern's beets baked in a salt crust accompanied by vegetables carbonized to ash, and pickled, fermented, and raw beets garnished with huckleberries and horseradish.
  • Regina Schrambling

This fall, three New York City restaurants will bring a touch of opulence to the garden patch. 

Agern (agernrestaurant.com), the first U.S. outpost from Noma pioneer Claus Meyer, offers a seven-course Field & Forest menu of meatless marvels. Executive chef Gunnar Gíslason maximizes flavors in such dishes as beets baked in a salt crust accompanied by vegetables carbonized to ash, and pickled, fermented, and raw beets garnished with huckleberries and horseradish.

Recently opened Günter Seeger NY (gunterseegerny.com)—the creation of its eponymous owner, the German-born, Atlanta-based chef—amplifies its farmer’s-market-to-table approach through New York’s green-market network. Early menus featured pickled green strawberries in a butter-lettuce salad and porcini as a meat substitute; fall will bring an overflowing cornucopia.

Finally, Dan Kluger, who made his name with vegetable-centric cooking at ABC Kitchen and ABC Cocina, is opening a new restaurant that will feature a wood-burning grill to make the most of late-summer corn and first-of-fall red peppers.

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