Andrew Carmellini, who has enjoyed stellar stints at Café Boulud and Le Cirque 2000 and garnered a James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef award, now is operating his own Manhattan restaurant, A Voce (www.avocerestaurant.com). The design of the restaurant, whose Italian name translates as “word of mouth,” does not conjure up images of Italy. But no matter, the food definitely does, from the indulgently rich appetizer of duck meatball antipasto to the gloriously messy dessert named bomboloni, which consists of cream-filled Tuscan doughnuts served with a side of chocolate sauce. . . .