It’s as though Angelenos had never tasted pizza until they tried Nancy Silverton’s version. Geography aside, she has produced a new benchmark for a universal favorite. It doesn’t hurt that she also turns out a mean crispy pig’s trotter and lighter-than-air ricotta gnudi, or that her partner in crime is Mario Batali. The pizzeria focuses on rounds, while the osteria, next door, has one large section of its menu devoted to mozzarella, another to pasta, and a third to heady, Italian-influenced main courses like grilled tagliata and monkfish alla diavolo.
Specialties: Burrata or fennel-sausage pizza; mozzarella tasting.