This recently opened kitchen in Chicago’s homey Pilsen neighborhood was one of the city’s most hotly anticipated 2017 debuts for a good reason. Chef Thai Dang, who runs the HaiSous with his wife Danielle, established a big name for himself at the late lamented Embeya and now, given free reign, he’s making good on all that wunderkind promise. The DIY dining room, designed by architect Danielle and punctuated by bamboo, sets the stage for Dang’s virtuoso Vietnamese dishes. One of the stars is his popular papaya salad, tossed with Vietnamese beef jerky. But stay hungry for the steamed clams in ginger-lemongrass broth, grilled pork belly glazed with tamarind, and a vegcentric Vietnamese curry heaped with sweet potato.