Great painters have their signature styles—a certain flair for lines, a subtlety of color, of shadow—that make any subject their own. In the medium of wine (and, specifically, of white wine), Ed Sbragia’s signature as an artist is the sheer force of the flavors his method brings to bear and the invigorating tension between them that braces and energizes the palate. His Beringer 2000 Sbragia Limited Release Napa Valley Chardonnay, like previous vintages, proves a fascinating study in how the envelope of expectation for Chardonnay can be stretched. Enormously ripe with a variety of fruit, including pear and mango, and boldly oaked, this release continues to redefine the genre.
Beringer Vineyards, 707.963.7115, www.beringer.com, $40