Leonildo Pieropan, the leading producer in Soave and the grandson of the estate’s founder (also named Leonildo), is a perfectionist in the vineyard and in the winery. Like the more common red Recioto di Valpolicella, Pieropan 2001 Recioto di Soave Classico Le Colombare, a rarer white variety, is made from the recie (ears) of the grape cluster—in this case, the upper, sunstruck lobes of Garganega. The grapes are dried for several months on straw mats, pressed in spring, and aged for two years in oak. The wine is sweet and spicy, with creamy, mouth-filling texture and loads of style.
($44; 500 ml)