The winemaker Mark Aubert is perhaps best-known these days for the supple, silky Chardonnay he crafts from the finest vineyards in Calistoga. Yet he made his original reputation with the red wines he produced for such important labels as the Peter Michael Winery, Bryant Family Vineyard, Sloan Estate, and Colgin Cellars. His passion for Chardonnay—the building block of many of the world’s most coveted white wines—prompted him to strike out on his own, and after years of working his white magic with this particular varietal, he returned to the realm of reds with a series of Pinot Noirs. Without doubt, the most beautifully articulated of these wines comes from the UV-SL Vineyard. The Aubert 2011 Pinot Noir UV-SL Vineyard (www.aubertwines.com, $80) is redolent of lavender, fresh rose petals, and layers of plum and black cherry.