Flips

Anyone who has examined a pre-1930s cocktail book has most likely noticed that many of the recipes unabashedly call for a whole egg here, an egg white there. Commonplace as it was, today’s reactions imply that one might as well skip the cocktail and just ask for a trip to the emergency room. But more adventuresome drinkers know that a little egg can make all the difference—and certain drinks simply can’t be made without them, most notably the flip.

“We’re adding lots of eggs to cocktails,” Nepove says. “It’s rich and delicious, and a flip can be done with so many different spirits. I’ve even done it with Jägermeister.”

The flip appears briefly in Jerry Thomas’ 1862 bartending tome, How to Mix Drinks, but its origins likely go back much further—to the early 18th century, when it was an egg-free drink that included beer, rum, and sugar heated with a hot poker. As the recipe evolved, the flip became a cold, shaken mixture of liquor, warm winter spices, sugar, and egg.

If consuming raw eggs is out of the question, hosts can try the Holiday Ringer, which makes a clever substitution of egg-yolk liqueur.

HOLIDAY RINGER 

By Francesco Lafranconi

1 oz. rye whiskey or Spanish brandy

1 oz. Warninks Advocaat egg-yolk liqueur

1/2 oz. Galliano liqueur

1/2 oz. cream-style sherry

Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a small wine goblet. Garnish with a pinch of cardamom–fleur de sel mix.*

*To make cardamom–fleur del sel mix, combine 4 ounces of fleur de sel and 1 teaspoon of ground green cardamom. Mix well and store in an airtight container. 

GINGER APPLE FLIP 

By Armando Rosario

11/2 oz. spiced rum

3/4 oz. Rainwater Madeira

3/4 oz. ginger syrup*

1 oz. unfiltered apple juice

1 whole egg

Cinnamon sugar for rim of glass**

Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail glass rimmed with cinnamon sugar. Garnish with apple slices and mint sprig.

*To make ginger syrup, bring 2 cups of superfine sugar, 1 cup of water, and 8 ounces of fresh peeled ginger root to a boil. Cool and add to a food processor or blender; process until smooth. Strain through a coffee filter or wire-mesh strainer. Refrigerate in an airtight glass container.

**To make cinnamon sugar, combine 1 cup of superfine sugar and 2 teaspoons of ground cinnamon. Mix well and store in an airtight container.

BRANDY FLIP

Circa mid-1800s

2 oz. VSOP Cognac or brandy

1 oz. gomme syrup*

1 whole egg

Combine ingredients with ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a small glass or wine goblet. Garnish with fresh-ground nutmeg.

*To make gomme syrup, bring 2 cups of superfine sugar and 1 cup of water to a boil. Cool completely and store at room temperature in an airtight glass container.

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