FrontRunners April 2015: Cosmic Cuvée

Our minds are trained from an early age to discover unity in the universe’s infinite multiplicity, and this tendency persists even in the small cosmos of wine, whose inhabitants seem preoccupied with the process of separation. Vintners divide regions into appellations, vineyards into blocks and micro crus, but their ultimate goal is to assemble the fruit of these labors into a delectable whole. Few if any have accomplished this aim using more diverse oenological components than the owners of Terlato Family Vineyards, whose Galaxy 2010 ($95, terlatovineyards.com) combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Merlot produced by three different winemakers in three distinct regions of the Napa and Dry Creek Valleys. Redolent of black cherry, plum, lilac, and citronella, this unorthodox blend integrates its flavors of boysenberry, cherry lozenge, red apple, toffee, and charred bread into a richly satisfying unity.

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