Tasting notes: The decipherable flavors in Diatom’s 2006 Chardonnay Clos Pepe are first lively lemon peel and key lime, then delicate brine, sweet sage, and a long, linear finish of calcium minerality that contracts, only gradually, to a pinpoint on the tongue. Worth knowing: The ocean’s effect on owner Greg Brewer’s wines is twofold. Not only does the marine influence provide cool growing conditions, but the soil, too, is oceanic in origin. Diatomaceous earth, resembling powdered chalk, is composed of diatoms—single-celled algae—that fossilized on the bottom of ancient seabeds millions of years ago. Because these microorganisms lend the wines grown in the area their unique minerality, Brewer chose to name his label after them.