Design Portfolio: Second Nature

  • Photo by Bernhard Rampf
    “With our choice of materials, we can bring out the most beautiful aspects of nature.” —Christian Hemmerle Photo by Bernhard Rampf
  • Photo by Bernhard Rampf
    “With our choice of materials, we can bring out the most beautiful aspects of nature.” —Christian Hemmerle Photo by Bernhard Rampf
  • Photo by Bernhard Rampf
    “With our choice of materials, we can bring out the most beautiful aspects of nature.” —Christian Hemmerle Photo by Bernhard Rampf
  • Photo by Bernhard Rampf
  • Photo by Bernhard Rampf
  • Photo by Bernhard Rampf
<< Back to Robb Report, March 2014

    Unlike most jewelry inspired by flowers and other flora, the Nature’s Jewels collection by Hemmerle (www.hemmerle.com) appears to have been foraged in the woods rather than cast in a workshop. An autumnal oak brooch of blackened silver and gold, for example—complete with weathered leaves slightly nibbled by insects—looks as if it were discovered on a forest floor, while another brooch in the shape of a cluster of rose hips might have been plucked from a late-summer garden, though in fact its buds are sculpted in matte copper and gold and capped with delicate diamonds. The 16-piece collection­—which debuts at the TEFAF Maastricht art and antiques fair in March, with prices starting at $50,000—portrays the organic beauty of fruits, plants, and seeds with a degree of realism seldom seen in fine jewelry. Christian Hemmerle, who represents the fourth generation of his family to run the Munich-based business, created the collection with his wife, Yasmin; his parents, Stefan and Sylveli; and a team of metalsmiths who employed sculpting, burnishing, and sandblasting techniques. A restrained scattering of gemstones artistically combined with ordinary materials, such as copper, bronze, and aluminum, has become a signature of Hemmerle’s aesthetic, which places greater emphasis on the color and texture of elements than on their monetary value. The one-of-a-kind pieces in this collection show the family’s design sensibility in full flower.

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