Feature: The Pride of Kenya

  • Photograph by Yann Arthus-Bertrand/Corbis
    Photograph by Yann Arthus-Bertrand/Corbis
  • Photograph by Sheila Gibson Stoodley
    The Maasai record their history in songs and dances. Some of the tribes living near Oldonyo Laro are willing to perform for guests. Photograph by Sheila Gibson Stoodley
  • Photograph by Sheila Gibson Stoodley
    Photograph by Sheila Gibson Stoodley
  • Photograph by Stevie Mann
    A vacation at Laro affords ample opportunity for safaris in nearby game parks, although ostrich and other wild animals also roam the grounds of the estate. Photograph by Stevie Mann
  • Photograph by Stevie Mann
    Each freestanding bedroom tent feels more like a canvas-sided cottage. Photograph by Stevie Mann
  • Photograph by Sheila Gibson Stoodley
    The pool. Photograph by Sheila Gibson Stoodley
  • Photograph by Stevie Mann
    Knowing they can return to Laro and relax by the pool, guests are more willing to camp overnight in the wild. Photograph by Stevie Mann
  • Photograph by Stevie Mann
    Photograph by Stevie Mann
  • Photograph by Yann Arthus-Bertrand/Corbis
  • Photograph by Sheila Gibson Stoodley
  • Photograph by Sheila Gibson Stoodley
  • Photograph by Stevie Mann
  • Photograph by Stevie Mann
  • Photograph by Sheila Gibson Stoodley
  • Photograph by Stevie Mann
  • Photograph by Stevie Mann
<< Back to Robb Report, October 2007
  • Sheila Gibson Stoodley

Hell’s Gate National Park,

despite its name, is one of Kenya’s more welcoming destinations. Indeed, you can roam areas of the wildlife reserve’s 26

square miles with little fear of being eaten; few of the big cats—lions and

leopards—tend to cross the borders into the park. No animal poses any threat to

my fellow passengers and me as we view the park from aloft, noting how the green

and tree-studded terrain contrasts with the tawny-colored savanna surrounding

Oldonyo Laro. The 65,000-acre estate, which lies 120 miles southwest of Nairobi,

was the starting point for this helicopter ride and is serving as home base

during this trip to Kenya.

"Where we’ll land, unless you want to walk enormous hours, you

can’t get there," says Peter Silvester, the guide who coordinated this morning’s

flight and every other significant excursion during my visit to Oldonyo Laro.

Just outside of Hell’s Gate, we touch down on a patch of grass that is framed by

cliffs whose rock faces emit puffs of steam. Silvester explains that, because of

these steam vents, this area is considered sacred by the Maasai, nomadic,

cattle-herding tribespeople who have lived in Kenya and Tanzania since the 17th

century. In battle, the Maasai have demonstrated their ferocity, as indicated by

the name of the national park. A 19th-century explorer dubbed the area "Hell’s

Gate" after tribe members ambushed him there and killed his partner.

Silvester descends a nearby riverbank and touches the mouth of

a vent, covering his fingers with a rust-colored goo. The steam brings minerals

to the surface, and one of those minerals, iron, turns red when it is exposed to

air. The red ocher is part of the Maasai’s tribal identity, Silvester explains.

They wear it as war paint and also for ceremonial purposes.

Silvester, a 43-year-old second-generation Kenyan (his

grandparents were British), has a mop of black hair, a boyish face, and a

preference for the beige clothes that have become the uniform of travelers who

explore rugged realms. A professional guide for three decades, he has been

serving the guests of Oldonyo Laro (which means "old buffalo hills" in Maa, the

language of the Maasai) since July 2006. When working for the estate (which the

locals call just Laro), Silvester has use of the helicopter, a seven-passenger

EC130 Eurocopter that allows him to showcase regions of East Africa that would

otherwise be difficult to reach. The helicopter also enables him to fill an

itinerary with a wide range of activities. "During the last trip I did, which

was 12 days long, we spent 60 hours in the chopper," Silvester says, noting that

it costs $1,600 an hour to operate the aircraft, but that flight time does not

affect the price of a guest’s stay, which is all-inclusive. "We don’t want to

say to you that you’ve run out of chopper time," he says. (The helicopter is not

the only flight choice available to Laro guests; you also can tour the

countryside in fixed-wing aircraft.)

Pilot Ian Mimano refers to the EC130 as "the Bentley" because

of its smooth handling and relatively stylish design. Silvester deploys the

helicopter to collect Laro guests from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. Then

during your stay, he might use it to take you to lunch in the Laro property’s

highlands—at a cabin that affords a view of elephants gathering at a

strategically placed salt lick. Or you might ascend Mount Kenya the easy way,

pausing along the way to hover over the flocks of flamingos that congregate on

Tanzania’s Lake Natron or to touch down and fish for trout. Golfers can land on

the driving range at the Windsor Golf and Country Club near Nairobi for a round

of 18 holes.

Silvester claims that Oldonyo Laro is a greater asset than the

helicopter. The house itself sits 4,500 feet above sea level, on the edge of the

rift that gives Africa’s Great Rift Valley its name. The building’s large dining

room and an adjoining lounge both feature thick eucalyptus-wood pillars, roofs

thatched with native red oat grass, and no fourth walls. A patio overlooks the

valley, and the pool area has a tented lounge and a separate tented space where

Naomi, a beautician from Nairobi, administers manicures, pedicures, and


The family who built Laro placed the bedrooms nearby, in seven

freestanding canvas-sided structures that are more like cottages than tents.

Each is perched on 8-foot-tall stilts and has a deck and a shower. The high

altitude ensures that the dwellings remain cool and attract few mosquitoes

(though they are zippered shut at night, just in case). A call button on the

headboard of the king-size bed summons room service.

Laro has its quirks. The beds have solar-powered reading

lights, but the rooms do not have outlets for hair dryers or laptops. (The

principal owner is fond of candlelight and has vetoed requests from family and

friends to install electricity.) If you want to stroll the grounds after

nightfall, you will need a staff escort because of the wild animals that like to

visit the estate. (A late-afternoon journey to the on-site airstrip was

temporarily halted by an ostrich sitting in the middle of the road.)

Neverthless, Laro is comfortable, secluded, and tranquil, and,

Silvester says, the promise of returning to the estate at the end of the day

encourages guests to try excursions that they might not otherwise attempt.

"Coming back to Laro is like coming back home," he says, explaining that, for

example, people with no interest in camping have been willing to spend a night

on the savanna knowing that the comforts of the house awaited them. "It allows

you to push the adventure side more. People will do a little more immersive

experience because they have Laro in the back of their minds."

Although Silvester is Laro’s head guide, he continues to

operate his own company, Royal African Safaris (RAS), which specializes in trips

that employ mobile camping facilities. Silvester could fill his calendar with

RAS clients, but he works with Laro, he says, because he likes what the Bonde

Nielsens, the Danish family who built the home, are doing with it. "They want to

go for something not done before in safaris—a unique, all-inclusive approach,"

he says. "Laro will open the door to new people. It will introduce the market to

people who have not come to Kenya on safari for various reasons."

Peter Bonde Nielsen is the family member most involved with

opening Laro to outsiders. His father, Jan, purchased Laro with a friend in

1985. Jan had fallen in love with Kenya in the 1970s, when he moved his

flower-growing business to the country from Sardinia. He has since sold his

greenhouses (he now operates an oil terminal in the country of Georgia), but he

kept Laro, which became his family’s holiday home.

Peter, the eldest of Jan’s five children, has managed Laro

since 2003, and he knows it well because he helped construct sections of it. In

the early 1980s, he finished his schooling in England by flunking his A levels,

exams that help determine whether a student would gain admittance to a

university. His father, not amused by Peter’s academic failings, eventually sent

him to the Kenya property, where he stayed for almost three years.


"I was part of the team that put in the roads," Peter says. "It

was a punishment, so I wasn’t in charge. I cut down trees and removed roots,

bushes, and rocks. I put in a few airstrips, too, but the one I built nearest to

the house no longer exists. It was turned around [later] because we thought it

was best not to have an airstrip facing a mountain."

Peter spent more than a decade working in Russia in different

fields (importing food and alcohol, producing carpets, and selling real estate)

before revisiting the home in 1999. He moved to Kenya permanently four years

later because, he says, "I realized Laro wasn’t going to work the way I wanted

it to work unless I was here."

The way Laro works is that each year the family rents the

property to five or six groups of guests for the all-inclusive rate of $250,000

per week. This modus operandi grew from the family’s need to maintain Laro when

they were away. "It’s still a private home. We don’t want it to get commercial

at all," Peter says. "But Laro is probably used by the family two times a year,

and then it sits. We thought we could use it to raise money for something

sensible, for community work in the area."

Peter says that 65 percent to 90 percent of the weekly rental

fee is split between two organizations: Oldonyo Laro Wildlife Security, a 90-man

force that patrols the Laro property, dissuading poachers and monitoring the

wildlife; and the Lorika Foundation, an organization that provides scholarships,

business education, and small loans to residents who live near Laro (See "Fixing

the Future"). The percentages that the organizations receive depend on

the renters; if they spend their days at Laro’s pool, the sum donated will be

greater, and if they fly the helicopter constantly, the sum will be smaller. The

Enterprise and Conservation Society, a U.K.-based charity, handles the bookings

and donates the proceeds to the organizations.

When the Bonde Nielsens were looking for someone who could

serve the guests and also nurture the philanthropic aspects of Laro, family

friends recommended Silvester. The family hired Silvester as head guide and his

wife, Julianna, another second-generation Kenyan of British descent, as the

director of hospitality.

"[Silvester], Jules, and I talked more and more about the

problems here, and what we could do to change things and also conserve the

area," Peter says, referring to the challenges arising from the poverty that

prevails in the neighboring communities. "We talked about how the effort must be

self-sustaining, and it must not rely on the family to be here and be alive.

Peter Silvester said this a long time ago, and I’ve noticed it ever since, but

conservation is not about animals, it’s about people. Without people, there’s no

need for conservation."

From Hell’s Gate, Mimano flies us to our next stop, the Solio

Game Reserve, where Silvester has obtained permission to set up camp for the

night. This is a privilege that the property, which devotes 17,000 of its 60,000

acres to wildlife, began granting only last year and only to a handful of

camping companies. On this night, we will be the only human sleepover guests.

Silvester says that because Solio is privately owned, the animals here are truly

wild, compared to the creatures in, say, Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater, who

encounter many safari vans and are accustomed to the presence of people.

Silvester included the side trip as an example of the "more

immersive experience" available to Laro guests. His camps feature amenities that

might have embarrassed Boy Scout founder Sir Robert Baden-Powell (who is buried

about 30 miles from Solio). Each tent contains a king-size bed, a wardrobe, a

flushable porcelain toilet, and a genuine shower (and complimentary toiletries).

Silvester achieves water pressure by hoisting a large canvas bag, which can hold

almost 19 gallons of hot water, 30 feet off the ground in a tree that is close

to the tents.

Since Solio’s founding in 1970, the reserve has protected and

nurtured hundreds of white and black rhinos, which have been hunted nearly to

extinction for their horns. Doug Owino, a bespectacled 42-year-old Kenyan who

has worked for RAS for 10 years and who Silvester deems "one of the better

guides in the country, very knowledgeable," leads the afternoon safari through

Solio. Soon after we depart the campsite, Owino spies two white rhinos, a mother

with her 3-year-old calf. When he inches the car within 20 feet of them, the

mother looks at our vehicle, but she cannot discern its occupants. "Bad eyesight

has let them down through the years," Owino says, referring to both species of

rhino. "Poachers are able to close in on them without them knowing they’re


We admire the rhinos for several minutes before they resume

their stroll. "If they had been black rhinos, we’d have been out of there in a

hurry," Owino says as we trundle along one of Solio’s dirt roads. "Sometimes

they charge you before you react to them. They can take out anything from ground

level to 7 feet high. They can slice open the side of a car. As a rule, [guides]

avoid exposing the sides of a car. The front and back are OK, but the sides are

vulnerable. You end up injured that way."

Not long after learning more than I wanted to know about the

dangers of black rhinos, we are traveling on a long, straight stretch that is

more of a path than a road. We move fairly fast because no interesting animals

reside here, and we want to reach another, more promising place before the sun

sets and ends our ride. Owino looks behind the car and spots something

troubling. Without saying why, he calmly and deftly seizes the stick shift and

urges the car forward at twice our previous speed.

In the instant before we rocket ahead, I notice his grave

expression, turn, and see the cause of his concern: an enormous gray shape

shambling off into the tall yellow grass. It looks like an animate section of a

stone wall, but Owino’s reaction confirms its identity as a black rhino. I scoot

away from the left side of the car to the center of the backseat.

Describing the encounter over dinner in the mess tent at the

Solio campsite, Owino does not boast about having saved our lives; instead he

jokes about the incident. "It was pissing," he says, laughing, "and it had its

rear to us and trotted away."

Still, the rhino must have been frighteningly close; when I saw

it departing, the animal was nearer to us than the two white rhinos had been. If

the beast had chosen to relieve itself while facing the path instead of the

grass, we might not be here to chortle about the encounter over an appetizer of

celery soup.

As Silvester, Mimano, Owino, and the other members of the

support team continue talking about their experiences with wild animals, I grin

and laugh and chat and eat, all the while thinking about the rhino and how

narrowly we escaped harm. I have sampled the "more immersive experience" that

Silvester promises Laro guests, and I am glad I did. However, tomorrow

afternoon, when we return to Laro, I will immerse myself in a copy of

Out of Africa borrowed from the house library, and I will do nothing more

perilous than receive a pedicure. It may not be fodder for riveting dinner

conversation, but it still will make for an enjoyable day in Kenya.

Enterprise & Conservation Society, 203.542.0567

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