A new generation of chefs and winemakers is transforming the Venice Lagoon.
On any given day, the musicians in the dueling café orchestras on Venice’s Piazza San Marco saw away at violins and pound on grand pianos, attempting to lure passersby to the tables with their strident siren calls. The atmosphere is manic, the crowds dense. The plaza bristles with selfie sticks, and plates are piled with too much of the tourist fare Venetians call plastica. A quick water-taxi ride over the Venice Lagoon, however, provides instant relief. By dusk, a hush falls upon the canals of these backwater islands, and the air is perfumed with the seductive smell of pesto, fritto misto, and olive oil.
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