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Bond Estates 2004 Melbury Napa Valley

Tasting notes: Grown northeast of Rutherford, Calif., near Lake Hennessey, this inky, voluptuous wine gives off heady, spellbinding aromas of blackberry, black cherry, rose water, and wildflowers, while its equally complex and protean palate seems to shift and alter endlessly, from flavors of blueberry and mineral to Asian spice, blackberry, plum, and violets. Worth knowing: Launched in 2003 with the 1999 vintage, Bond is quite literally the concrete manifestation of an abstract ideal formulated during owner Bill Harlan’s early years in Napa Valley, when he and winemaker Bob Levy were getting started in the wine industry and working with 60 different growers throughout the region.

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