Alex Golitzin could not have hired a more capable consultant than his late uncle, who furnished much-needed advice when Golitzin began to contemplate a career as a vintner. His uncle, after all, was André Tchelistcheff, a founding father of the Napa Valley wine industry. Golitzin, however, did not seek to plant roots in California; instead, he wanted to make wine in Washington State’s Columbia Valley, where he and his wife settled in the late 1960s. His winery, Quilceda Creek, made its commercial debut with the release of the 1979 vintage, and its reputation as the finest producer of Cabernet Sauvignon in the region has since flourished. The Quilceda Creek 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley (www.quilcedacreek.com, $135) presents an intense perfume of concentrated wild berries, cassis, sage, curry, mint, and roasted coffee. Its flavor profile is equally potent, revealing a liqueur-like brew of blackberry, black raspberry, mushroom, black walnut, cinnamon, and clove atop a wave of gorgeous acidity.