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BEST of the BEST 2014 | Leisure | Dining: CBD Provisions

Leslie Brenner

Those who think that the most exciting cooking in Texas comes from a barbecue pit should think again: The state is crackling with creative energy, and no place exemplifies this vitality more than CBD Provisions (214.261.4500, www.cbdprovisions​.com) in Dallas. Opened last fall in downtown’s Joule Hotel, CBD boasts interiors that suggest the laid-back dining room of a tony ranch house. Presiding over its open kitchen is chef Michael Sindoni, a native of Syracuse, N.Y., who came to the Joule via Againn in Washington, D.C. Sindoni reinvents Texas cooking with graceful balance, pairing luscious avocado toasts with cobia seviche brightened with ruby grapefruit and laced with mescal. Fried pig tails in a tangy guajillo barbecue sauce come with a creamy, dill-flecked kohlrabi slaw. There are golden pastries filled with savory stout-braised cabrito, pork shoulder braised for 18 hours in a dusky green-chile salsa, and spectacular locally raised wagyu rib steak sliced off the bone into gorgeous slabs.